Gli Occhi dellaSerenissima

Methoni, Koroni, and Pylos (Navarino). I'm fascinated by the history of Methoni and am currently preparing a trip from Venice to the Occhi della Serenissima.

My fascination began when I discovered how vast Venice's network once was and how deeply the Serenissima's influence extended into Greece. The journey from Venice to the Peloponnese is so much more than a mere maritime route: it's a chain of stories about trade and power, war and faith, culture and solidarity.

Within that vast network, Methoni and Koroni together formed the famous "Eyes of the Serenissima" —strategic gateways that gave Venice access to the Orient. Pylos (Navarino) completed this ensemble as a natural harbor: less famous, but indispensable for protecting the fleets. For my trip, I deliberately focused on the Eyes of the Serenissima because it is here that the Venetian presence in Greece remains most tangible and vibrant.

The route from Venice to Methoni & Koroni

From the Venetian Lagoon, the proud ships of the Serenissima set sail: the cocches (cargo ships) and the galeazzes (heavier, more heavily armed galleys). The journey to the Peloponnese took an average of three to five weeks, depending on the wind and stops along the way. The classic route led via the Adriatic Sea, past Corfu (Kerkyra) and Zakynthos, to the southwest coast of the Peloponnese.

On board was a diverse group: dozens of rowers, sailors, merchantmen, and soldiers, but also the wives and children of Venetian dignitaries. Methoni and Koroni weren't barren garrisons—they were lively towns, where families lived and daily life continued alongside the military presence.

The ships themselves were impressive. A galea (slender galley) was often manned by 150 to 200 rowers and 40 to 60 marines, while a cocca (a carrack-like cargo ship) could carry up to 200–600 tons of cargo, with a crew of 30 to 60 men. These numbers were precisely what was needed for such long voyages: sufficient power to trade and enough armament to defend themselves en route.

Methoni (Venetian: Modon ) – crown jewel of the Serenissima

Methoni was Venice's main base in Greece.

Population & society

• 2,000–3,000 inhabitants in the heyday: young Venetians aged 20–40 (soldiers, sailors, merchants), older administrators and clergy, craftsmen, Greek residents, and families of Venetian officers/merchants.

• Urban life: warehouses, shipyards, markets, churches, inns. Archaeological finds (jewelry, ceramics) confirm the bourgeois character.

  
  

Architecture, symbolism & the Bourtzi

• The castle was given high walls and bastions; the Lion of San Marco still adorns the gates.

• The Bourtzi of Methoni is an octagonal harbour fortress-tower, built on a small islet and connected to the castle by a stone bridge.

  • Original Venetian name: Torre di San Niccolò (Saint Nicholas, patron saint of sailors).

  • Function: harbour fort (control of inland shipping/gun posts) and prison.

  • Ghibelline battlements (swallowtail): typical Italian/Venetian crown profile – a visual signature indicating Venetian finishing/renovation.

  • Dating & phases: Venetian construction late 15th–early 16th century; later restorations during the second Venetian period (1686–1715) and modifications after 1715 by the Ottomans. The dovetail battlements remain the most striking "Venetian" feature.

• Administrative titles: in Modon there were Venetian rettori (governors) and a castellano (castle commander); maritime supervision was the responsibility of the Provveditore da Mar (maritime prefect).

  
  

Economic importance

Methoni was the true fueling station of the Serenissima. Here, ships replenish their supplies: water, olive oil, grain, and wine for the fleet and merchant shipping.

The city was a vital link on the great Venetian trade route to Crete, Cyprus, Constantinople and further to the Orient.

And why precisely to the Orient? Because that's where the riches that made Venice great lay: spices like pepper, cinnamon, and cloves, silk from China and Persia, grain from the Black Sea, and, of course, wine and olive oil from Greece itself. These were the true lifeblood of Venetian prosperity—and Methoni was at the heart of it.

The Fall (1500)

The fall of Methoni in 1500 was a tragedy. After Sultan Bayezid II sent his troops into the city, the Venetian stronghold was completely overrun. The Ottomans committed a veritable massacre: most of the population—Venetians and Greeks alike—were massacred. Those who didn't die were taken captive or enslaved.

In Venice itself, this news hit hard: Methoni was not just a port, but a symbol of the Serenissima's power in Greece. The loss and the murders were remembered for decades as one of the darkest chapters in Venetian history in the Orient.

Koroni the inseparable twin of Methoni

In its heyday, Koroni (Venetian Coron ) had about 1,500 to 2,000 inhabitants: a mix of Venetian families and Greek residents.

The city was known primarily for its economic specialization: the production and trade of olive oil and wine, which found their way directly to the markets of Europe via Venice.

Together with Methoni, Koroni formed the famous "Occhi della Serenissima" – the Eyes of Venice . Whoever controlled Modon and Coron held the keys to the eastern Mediterranean.

But Koroni also suffered the same fate as Methoni: in 1500 the city fell into Ottoman hands, thus abruptly ending a flourishing Venetian period.

Navarino (Pylos)

Navarino (present-day Pylos) played a more modest, yet indispensable, role in the Serenissima network. The Venetian stronghold here was the Palaiokastro, the Old Navarino .

The garrison consisted of a few hundred men – much smaller than the populations of Methoni and Koroni, which were actual towns. Yet, Navarino possessed a unique advantage: its deep, sheltered bay. This natural harbor was ideal for safely sheltering entire fleets, making Navarino strategically important.

In 1573, the situation changed dramatically. The Ottomans built the Neokastro (New Castle) on the south side. With this, the Venetian fortress lost its military significance and gradually faded into obscurity.

Two Venetian periods in the Morea

First Venetian period – 1206–1500

• 1206 – After the Fourth Crusade, Venice establishes itself in the Peloponnese, under the leadership of Doges such as Enrico Dandolo.

• 13th–15th centuries – Methoni and Koroni flourish: strategic ports, trading centres, and known as the “Occhi della Serenissima”.

• 1500 – Sultan Bayezid II conquers Methoni and Koroni.

  • Methoni's population is largely exterminated.

  • Venice is losing its main footholds in the region.

Second Venetian Period – 1686–1715 (Morean War)

• 1686 – During the Morean War, Venice, under Doge Francesco Morosini, reconquers large parts of the Peloponnese.

• 1686–1715 – Methoni, Koroni and Navarino are again Venetian.

  • The fortifications are being restored and expanded.

  • The region experienced a brief revival of Venetian power and trade.

• 1715 – Under Doge Giovanni II Cornaro, the Venetians definitively lose the Morea to the Ottomans.

  • This ends the Venetian presence in Greece after more than five centuries.

    
    

Language and culture

Venetian Italian was spoken in the administration and army: the language of commands, trade contracts, and official documents. The local population spoke Greek, ensuring a persistent bilingual society in the castles and towns.

This is clearly reflected in the Venetian archives: the cities were given Italian names. Methoni was consistently referred to as Modon, Koroni as Coron, and Pylos as Navarino. These were not coincidental names, but official designations that remained in use for centuries in all trade agreements and military records.

Even today, the Venetian traces are visible. In Methoni and Koroni, you can still see inscriptions in Italian and the proud Lion of St. Mark above the gates and walls. Even in some local dialects, Italian loanwords have persisted – particularly in the fields of shipping and administration. Think of words associated with the sea, government, or trade: echoes of a time when Venice shaped daily life in these areas.

The Armenians in Methoni & Koroni

The ports of Methoni and Koroni were true melting pots during the Venetian era. Besides Venetians and Greeks, they were also home to Armenian merchants, craftsmen, and clergy. They were part of the multicultural society that made the ports' trade and culture so unique.

The Mechitarists

An important chapter in this story begins with Mechitar of Sebaste (Sivas, Anatolia), who founded the Order of the Mechitarists around 1701.

• 1701 – Constantinople: The community was initially established in the Ottoman capital.

• 1703 – The Flight to the Morea: The Mechitarists soon sought refuge under the protection of the Venetians in the Peloponnese. They stayed, among other places, in the area of Modon (Methoni) and Coron (Koroni), where they joined the Venetian communities.

• 1715 – The Fall: When the Ottomans recaptured the Morea, the Mechitarists fled again. Along with the Venetians, they abandoned Methoni and Koroni and headed for Venice.

San Lazzaro degli Armeni – the new home

In 1717, the Republic of Venice granted the Mekhitarists a deserted island in the lagoon: San Lazzaro. Here they built their new monastery, which remains active to this day: Monastero Mekhitarista di San Lazzaro degli Armeni.

(It was founded in 1717 by the order of the Mechitarists, named after their founder Mechitar of Sebaste)

The monastery became a beacon of Armenian culture in Europe:

• Printing house: the first Armenian Bible editions were printed here, along with countless other religious and literary works.

• Library: now with over 200,000 books and manuscripts, one of the richest collections in the world on Armenian language and culture.

• Language & Science: The monastery became a center for the study and preservation of Classical Armenian (grabar) and Western Armenian. Dictionaries and grammars were developed here, bridging the gap between the Orient and Europe.

Cultural appearance

Even prominent European figures felt the pull of this unique monastery. Lord Byron, the English poet, stayed here in 1816–1817 and studied Armenian. His notes and exercises in the language are still preserved.

Today

To this day, San Lazzaro degli Armeni remains one of the most important Armenian cultural centers outside Armenia. The monastery is not only a religious house but also a living museum and scientific center, which keeps the connection between Armenia, Greece, and Venice visible.

In short: Methoni (Modon), Koroni (Coron), and Navarino (Pylos) were the "Occhi della Serenissima," the proud eyes of Venice. Here, thousands of Venetians and their families lived alongside the Greeks, between Venetian-Italian and Greek, trading spices, silk, grain, wine, and olive oil, and castles adorned with the Lion of St. Mark.

In Methoni, the Bourtzi, the Torre di San Niccolò, still shines. But history was dramatic: in 1500, Methoni fell to Bayezid II, and in 1715 the Venetians finally lost the Morea. Yet this story lives on. The Mechitarists, an Armenian order, fled with the Venetians to Venice and founded San Lazzaro degli Armeni

And now we're bringing this story back to life—a journey from Venice to the Occhi della Serenissima. Will you join us on our discovery tour?